Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Nestling in the bosom of the Gauls



We spent Saturday and Sunday as guests of Peppe and Angiola Omenetti at their home just outside Senigallia.
    In reality, the town is named after a Gallic tribe, the Senone, not - as its name seems to suggest - a Gallic bosom. An interesting place with a rectilinear street layout reminiscent of Servigliano - or for those of you who've been there - an American city. Pat and I had a brief wander round the town before we got to Peppe's and I managed to buy this year's Montalbano giallo, Una lama di luce. Hope it's not as disappointing as the last five.  On Saturday evening the Omenetti treated us to a seafood supper at a quayside restaurant. We were joined by four of their friends: Massimo, Tomasso and respective spouses.
   On Sunday morning Massimo took Peppe and us on a guided tour - he works for a cultural organisation. We visited the former friary of  Santa Maria delle  Grazie.  The church itself was chiefly memorable for what I initially assumed to be a recording of the rosary. In reality it was a woman sitting in the front pew of an otherwise empty building reciting the prayers over a PA system. Maybe it was a penance for some particularly heinous sin. The ex-friary itself housed a museum of country life. A hand-cranked machine for cutting up cattle-feed was amongst its many exhibits. I assume it was similar to the one which cut off my grandfather's finger. The museum also contained a collection of stuffed birds. Glancing at their labels I was surprised to find that one of them, a small owl, was called a civetta, a word I'd always assumed meant shrew. A quick check in the dictionary revealed the source of my confusion: as well as meaning a small owl, civetta can also mean a minx, the only context in which I'd previously come across it. So I've now learnt that whilst in English such women are named after small rodents, in Italian they're likened to small birds!
   We then visited the Church of San Martino. A middle-aged man in an open-necked shirt gave us a long talk about the church's treasures and finally presented us with a book about its eighteenth century land-registry map. I assumed he was the sacristan but it turned out he was the parish priest, Fr. Giuliano Grassi OSM. Being very old I still instinctively expect priests to be wearing a soutane or at least a black suit and a dog-collar. No reason why they should - Christ and the Apostles seem to have sported some sort of nightshirt. But confusing nonetheless.

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